Trains, Planes and Automobiles.
An introduction to the best night markets in Bangkok.
There was a night market renaissance in Bangkok, back in around 2012, when the usual purveyors of knock-off goods and tourist tack became trendy nightlife spots drawing crowds of both locals and visitors to the city. Traditional night markets became morphed into dynamic cultural hubs for the young and trendy, with live music, art installations, themed events and of course lots of food. Fancy a slap-up meal in a decommissioned airplane?
The initial trend started back in 2012 with Talad Rot Fai (aka the Train Market) which was an afterhours offshoot of the famous daytime Chatuchak ‘JJ’ Weekend market found in the same area. Now the term Talad Rot Fai, or Train Market, has become almost synonymous with night markets in Bangkok. Unfortunately, the original train market was forced to close due to eviction from its original home in a rundown train yard (hence the name), sparking a resurgence of clones popping up all over the city. Each market trying to be bigger and better than those that came before.
Srinagarindra Train Night Market (Phra Khanong)
While there are a number of Train Markets in Bangkok, Srinagarindra is the new home to the original Talad Rot Fai and remains close to its retro origins with a focus on vintage collectables and memorabilia. A perfect place to browse unique Thai trinkets and bric-a-brac rather than the mass-produced items in Bangkok’s malls. It’s a bit like a car boot sale in parts, flogging out of classic Volkswagen campers renovated into shop fronts, old train bogies, and classic vintage cars and Cadillacs. It is slightly outside the popular tourist areas of Bangkok, but it can still be reached from Sukhumvit on the convenient Skytrain/metro network followed by a short taxi ride.
Opening Days and Times:
Thursday to Sunday evenings from around 5 or 6 PM until late.
Getting There:
From the city centre take the BTS Skytrain to Udom Suk Station (Sukhumvit Line) then it’s a short taxi to reach the market. It’s located behind the better known Seacon Square Shopping Mall.
Address:
1 4 Srinagarindra Rd, Khwaeng Nong Bon, Khet Prawet
Jodd Fairs (Rama 9)
This upscale night market is more accessible for tourists with a convenient location on the edge of the central Sukhumvit area, just 2 stops along on the MRT underground line from the main Asoke/Sukhumvit interchange. The main focus of Jodd Fairs is on food trends with regular queues for their mountains of “Leng Zaap” (spicy and sour pork spine soup), and “kung tang” (shrimp buckets where tangy curried prawns are served and eaten directly off the tabletop). There are some great camper-cum-cocktail bars and live music as well. Jodd Fairs does currently occupy land penned for development, but it continues to operate and expand in 2024, and its popularity has already spawned similar clones including Jodd Fairs DanNeramit.
Opening Days and Times:
Daily from around 4 PM and until around midnight.
Getting There:
From the city centre take the MRT subway to Rama 9 Station (Blue Line). Themarket is found next to the connecting Central Rama 9 Shopping Mall.
Address:
Rama 9 Rd, Huai Khwang, Bangkok 10310
Chang Chui Plane Market (Pinklao)
Officially known as Chang Chui Creative Park, this night market stands out due to its artistic and creative atmosphere. Originating as a creative hub, Chang Chui is home to various art installations, galleries and unique architecture which existed before the night market was built. Many shops, stalls and entertainment venues were then built into old shipping containers, although most people are actually there to see the airplane. Unofficially known as the plane night market, Chang Chui is centred around a Lockheed L-1011 Tristar plane cum high end restaurant (No Ah Bangkok) serving 5 to 8 course menus. Chang Chui used to be hard to reach from most tourist areas of Bangkok, but was recently connected by the MRT underground lines.
Opening Days and Times:
Opens daily (apart from Wednesdays) from around 4 PM until midnight.
Getting There:
From the city centre take the MRT subway to Bang Phlat Station (Purple Line) then it’s a short taxi or walk to reach the market.
Address:
460/8 Sirindhorn Rd, Bang Phlat, Bangkok 10700
Asiatique The Riverfront (Chao Phraya River)
Trains, planes, automobiles… and boats? Set on the scenic Chao Phraya River, Asiatique Night Market stands out from other markets due to its riverside location and its primary tourist focus with a host of other attractions including a 60-metre-high Ferris wheel and a transgender cabaret theatre. Unlike many other night markets, Asiatique is a permanent fixture and more like an open-air mall with over 1,500 boutique shops and stalls including chain restaurants and international foods. For scenes of the river itself there is a high-end dining experience, or you can sip a quick cocktail on a replica 19th century shipping vessel, the Sirimahannop, docked along the riverfront.
Opening Days and Times:
Open every day, typically in the afternoon around 4 PM until late at night, usually around 11 PM or midnight.
Getting there:
From the central Bangkok take the BTS Skytrain to Saphan Taksin Station (Silom Line) then transfer to the Asiatique Shuttle Boat from Sathorn Pier (Central Pier). This service runs from 4 PM to 11:30 PM daily with boats departing every 15-30 minutes.
Address:
2194 Charoen Krung Road, Wat Phraya Krai, Bang Kho Laem, Bangkok.
Liab Duan (Ramintra)
“The market located along the expressway.” Not the catchiest of names but this market is otherwise a huge draw with locals, with very few tourists in sight. This is partly due to its hard-to-reach location outside the center but it is worth the effort for the less polished local experience and the taxi fare will quickly break even with lower prices for shopping, eating and drinks. There is also an eclectic mix of attractions from vintage car boot sales, night life performances, haircuts and the hard to miss giant Transformers robots and sculpture of the Eiffel Tower.
Opening Days and Times:
Open every day from the late afternoon around 4 PM until past midnight.
Getting there:
From central Bangkok it is best to take a taxi.
Address:
35 Pradit Manutham Road, Khwaeng Tha Raeng, Khet Bang Khet
JJ Market at Night (Chatuchak)
The Chatuchak area is synonymous with shopping, famous for the Chatuchak (JJ) Weekend Market, but also many former night markets including the original Talad Rot Fai train market, JJ Green, JJ Green 2, etc. While currently there is no specific night market, the area is still a hub for trade, and certain sections of the Chatuchak weekend market continue to trade in the evening hours. It is more for the serious shoppers and traders, often selling bargain goods at wholesale prices, without the usual focus on food stalls or entertainment. It is also one of the largest markets in the world covering approximately 35 acres of land so be prepared to get lost. For a similar, more central night market you can also check out the Pratunam Night Market.
Opening Days and Times:
Opens every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from around 6:00 PM until midnight or later.
Getting There:
From the city centre take the BTS Skytrain to Mo Chit Station (Sukhumvit Line) or the MRT subway to Kamphaeng Phet station (MRT Blue Line). It’s then a short walk to the market.
Address:
587, 10 Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd, Khwaeng Chatuchak
Yaowarat Road (Chinatown)
Not so much a night market as a street connecting many night time food markets. While there are occasional clothes and trinket stalls around Yaowarat Road, a visit to Chinatown is almost always about the food. It is a foodie’s paradise not just in the connecting lanes and alleys but also along the main stretch of Yaowarat Road, which is home to a handful of Michelin Guide eateries to tick off the list. Like the shops, temples, customs and architecture of Chinatown, the food is predominantly Chinese influenced, and the area is also a great place to track down some of Thailand’s famed durian (aka the stinky fruit). Yaowarat opens daily without fail but the stalls tend to be limited on Monday due to it being the official day for street cleaning.
Opening Days and Times:
Open Daily from early until late.
Getting There:
From the city centre take the MRT subway to Wat Mangkon station (Blue Line) then it is a short walk to Yaowarat Road.
Address:
Yaowarat Road, Khwaeng Samphanthawong
As contributing writers, Allan & Fanfan have been sharing their travels across Thailand for over a decade, often from their bases in Bangkok and the rural rice fields of Northeastern Thailand. Visit their website for more https://live-less-ordinary.com
